Zanskar_Oct22

This is a photo essay of a 5-day trip to the Zanskar valley in October 2022. I travelled with Sreelakshmi and Pavin Samuel from IIT Mandi in an Innova taxi from Manali.

Thumbnail photos are interspersed with text. Click on any photos to see a medium-resolution image which you are free to download. In case you would like the high resolution originals of any photos, please send a request by email.

Tuesday 4th October 2022: Gemur to Padum

On Tuesday 4th October, we drove from Gemur in the Keylong area of Lahaul to Darcha, then up the new road along the Jankar Nala to Shingo La pass. From Shingo La, the road descends to the Lungnak Valley. The Gonbo Rangjon mountain is an impressive rocky cone that rises precipitiously from the valley floor. We stopped for tea at a campsite near the base. The owner told us that with the road construction, trekkers have declined in number. The road runs along the right bank of the Kargiakh Chu river until the confluence with the Tsarap at Purne. En route, we stopped for a sandwich lunch opposite Testa, a left bank village. The views were spectacular with brilliant blue skies in the crisp, clear high-altitude valley. Here and there, road work raised some dust but it soon died down.

Darcha-Padum road winding up to Shinku La, Lahaul, Himachal, India. Elev. 4,975m (16,322'). Peaks about 5,600m (18,375').

With Pavin and Sree at the Shinku La pass

Bikers at Shinku La. Shingo Ri behind the flagpole. Zanskar/Ladakh on left, Lahaul/Himachal on right.

Shingo La, view south of road down towards Darcha beyond the lake.

Shingo Ri (6,070m, 19,915'), view from Shingo La

Prayer flags fluttering in the wind at Shingo La

Range on the left bank of the Jankar Sangpo stream along the road to Darcha. Elev. 5,800m (19,000'). Patseo on the Manali-Leh highway is on the far side of the range. View from Shingo La. Lahaul, Himachal, India.

View from Shingo La (elev. 5,054m/16,580') north towards Lungnak valley, Zanskar. Road (under construction) descends towards Lungnak and onwards to Padum. Much less snow on this north side of the pass compared to the south (Lahaul) side. Ladakh, India.

Road descends towards Padum from Shinku La, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Road work in progress, Tata Hitachi earthmover breaking rocks, below Shingo La towards Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Road in the valley turn right to start ascent to Shingo La

View down the valley

Dust raised by JCB clearing roadway, ascent to Shingo La from Zanskar

Campsite near Gonbo Rangjon. Reported less business now with the road compared to trekkers earlier.

Bikers at Gonbo Rangjon, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Gonbo Rangjon, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Building a culvert south of Kargyak on the Darcha-Padum road. Elev. 4,130m (13,550'). Lungnak valley, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Gonbo Rangjon (elev. 5,520m, 18,110'), view from north on Padum-Darcha road. Distant peaks ~5,800m (19,000'). Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Kargyak village, panorama from south. Elev. 4,130m (13,550'). Lungnak valley, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Chortens north of Kargyak, Lungnak valley, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Kargyak on left, Gonbo Rangjon on right, view to south. Zanskar, Ladakh, India.

Khing, left bank of the Kargiakh Chu, Lungnak valley, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Mountains west of Khing, left bank of the Kargiakh Chu, Zanskar, India

View towards NW, willows along the Kargiakh Chu, Lungnak valley, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Testa, left bank village, close view, Kargiakh Chu, Lungnak valley, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Testa, left bank village, Kargiakh Chu, Lungnak valley, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Lunch on right bank of Kargiakh Chu, opp. Testa, Zanskar

Testa, left bank village, Kargiakh Chu, distant view, Lungnak valley, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Road from Testa village to the highway, view to south, right bank of Kargiakh Chu, Lungnak valley, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Yal hamlet, willows in autumn colours, left bank of the Kargiakh Chu. Elev. 3,930m (12,894'). Lungnak valley, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Highway from Purne to Chah cut into barren mountain side, right bank of Tsarap Lingti Chu, Zanskar, India

Confluence: Kargiakh Chu (left) meets Niri Tsarap Chu (right) to form Tsarap Lingti Chu (centre-top). Aka: Lungnak river, Tsarap river. Purne, Zanskar, Ladakh, India.

After crossing the Purne bridge, the road enters a narrow gorge on the right bank of the Tsarap Lingti Chu. Nearing our destination, we were blocked for 2 1/2 hours due to blasting of the cliff to widen the road. We reached our destination, Hotel Rigyal in Padum at about 8 pm.

After the pass for most of the way to Padum, the road is unpaved and under construction. In a few places, there is water flowing over the road. Contrary to popular advice, the road is motorable in a small vehicle with good ground clearance such as a Maruti Ignis or WagonR. A skillful driver is necessary. We had hired an Innova taxi from Manali.

Bushes in autumn colours, Tsarap Lingti Chu near Amnu, Zanskar, India

Escort vehicle with bike group, near Amnu

Tsetang, left bank of the Tsarap Lingti Chu, near Amnu, Zanskar, India

Batch mixing plant for road construction, near Amnu

Waiting for break in road work, near Amnu

Highway on the right bank of the Tsarap Lingti Chu, NW of Amnu, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Excavator clearing debris after blasting to widen the road, near Niru on the left bank of the Tsarap river, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Excavator clearing debris from blasting

Vehicles blocked due to blasting

Brown water on left due to dumping of blast debris, Tsarap Lingti Chu

Wednesday 5th October 2022: Stakrimo and Karsha Gompas

On Wednesday 5th October, we woke to an invigourating chill under clear skies. As the sun rose in the east, the rays slanting across the valley above Padum promised warmth to the awakening town. Rigyal Hotel, being on a rising slope to the south of the town, afforded good views of Padum and the northern limits of the valley. To the south, the towering snow-capped peaks glowed in the morning sun.

After breakfast, we climbed up to Stakrimo Gompa a few hundred feet above to the south. The Gompa is surrounded by a copse of birch and willow, brilliant yellow in the sunlight, a striking composition against the deep blue sky. There are several chortens and a prayer wheel outside the entrance to the monastery. The monastery has two buildings with prayer halls. The smaller one below has an image of a young monk. The upper prayer hall in the main building has the traditional collection of Buddhist items, including a drum, a teapot for brewing barley/herbal tea, etc. The main building has been renovated by constructing a modern structure outside the old walls. Besides the usual prayer wheels, beneath a birch tree we found a water-driven prayer wheel. A friendly monk took us around and explained the history and religious significance.

Padum morning view from SW (Rigyal Hotel), Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Monastery early morning, Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

R-L: Haftal Kangri (6120m), Ubarak Kangri (6150m), Paburigo (5740m). Stakrimo Gompa and cell tower left of centre. View from Rigyal, Padum, Zanskar, India

Rigyal Hotel front view (wide), Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Hotel Rigyal (centre front), view from rear, Karsha in the distance.

Breakfast in the sun, Rigyal Hotel, Maneyringmo, Padum, Zanskar, India

Sparrow on willow, Rigyal Hotel, Padum

Schoolgirls walking to school in Padum, Zanskar, India

Farm houses and birch copses in Photang village, SE outskirts of Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Chorten and cell tower, willows in autumn colours, Stakrimo Gompa, Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Namkha Resort, near Stakrimo Gompa, Padum, Zanskar

Village women near Stakrimo Gompa, Padum, Zanskar, India

Prayer wheel, flags and chortens, Stakrimo Gompa, Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Prayer wheel near the entrance to Stakrimo Gompa. Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Birch trees in autumn colours, Stakrimo Gompa, Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Lower monastery building with a minor deity, Stakrimo Gompa, Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Prayer wheel, Stakrimo Gompa, Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Birch tree trunk, Stakrimo Gompa, Padum

Entrance to main building, Stakrimo Gompa, Padum, Zanskar, India

Photang village south of Padum, view from Stakrimo Gompa. Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Barley (?) herbal tea and seeds in foreground, Stakrimo Gompa, Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Central prayer hall, Stakrimo Gompa, Padum, Zanskar, India

Monk explaining to rapt tourist, Stakrimo Gompa

Padmasambhava statue in prayer hall, Stakrimo Gompa, Padum, Zanskar, India

Central prayer hall, Stakrimo Gompa, Padum, Zanskar, India

Drum in prayer hall, Stakrimo Gompa, Padum, Zanskar, India

Statue and picture in lower monastery building, Stakrimo Gompa, Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Water-driven prayer wheel, Stakrimo Gompa, Zanskar, India

New monastery built around the old, Stakrimo, Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh

At the top of a hillock is a big chorten and a solar-powered mobile tower. There is a good panoramic view of Padum, Karsha and other villages in the valley. The Tsarap flows in from the right, the Stod-Doda from the left and after merging, the Zanskar flows out at the top right.

From the monastery, we walked eastwards along a hill to get a different view of the valley. Then, down into the valley and along the Photang-Padum road lined with birches/willows in autumn colours. Saw two mosques, as there is a sizeable Muslim population in Padum. After rice and rajma in a local restaurant, we returned to Rigyal.

Prayer flags south of Stakrimo Gompa. New road construction in progress. Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Cell tower with solar panels, Stakrimo Gompa, Padum, Zanskar, India

Padum bird's eye view from Stakringmo, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Red berries on willows

Domestic yak with traditional nose ring and modern ear tag, Padum

Cautious descent on fragile slope above Padum

Stakrimo Gompa in a copse of birch trees, view from east, Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Tibetan Buddhist flags setup for a wedding, Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Photang - Padum road, birch trees and shrubs in autumn colours. Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Darcha road and Tsarap Lingti Chu enter Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Old Mosque, Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Old Mosque, SW side on road, Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Jama Masjid, detail above entrance, Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Jama Masjid, front view, Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

New building, typical architecture and saturaed colours, Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh

On Wednesday 5th October afternoon, we drove to Karsha at the foot of the mountain range to the north-east of Padum. The road crosses the Stod-Doda river before climbing gently up to Karsha village. A moderately steep paved path and steps lead up to the entrance of the 1,000-year old Karsha Gompa. Steep steps climb between tiers of buildings to the main monastery at the top. The murals, prayer wheels, central prayer hall are similar to Stakrimo and other gompas. The upper floors and roofs are supported by bundles of willow twigs, sometimes several feet deep.

Karsha Gompa perched on a cliff, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Main building at top of Karsha Gompa, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Buddha statue, Karsha, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Padum from north, Stod-Doda river from right to left, Tsarap Lingti Chu left centre, backdrop Zanskar range. Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Karsha village, view south from the Gompa. Padum left-centre, Stod river right to left, Tsarap Chu centre to left. Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Karsha village, Stod-Doda river. View from the Gompa. (PC: Pavin Samuel)

Buddha statue closeup, Karsha, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Entrance portal from path below, Karsha Gompa, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Entrance into the Karsha Gompa, view from inside, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Prayer wheel inside Karsha Gompa, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Detail, Prayer wheel inside Karsha Gompa, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Monk with modern amenities. Many levels of Karsha Gompa rising up the cliff, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Padum and Zanskar Range, view from Karsha Gompa NNE. Stod-Doda river right to left, Tsarap River to left. Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Monk on a sunny terrace, Karsha Gompa. Stod river in front, Tsarap river in back. Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Main building at the top of the Karsha Gompa, south side face. Stacks of willow sticks support the roof and upper floors. Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Plaque, Karsha Gompa, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Stacks of willow sticks support the roof and upper floors. Karsha Gompa, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Mural, Main Monastery, Karsha Gompa, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Prayer hall, Main Monastery, Karsha Gompa, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

As one climbs, there are gorgeous panoramic views of the Padum valley with the 3 rivers -- Tsarap and Stod-Doda which join below Karsha to form the Zanskar -- Padum and several villages and the towering Zanskar range. The north-facing slopes on the south bank of the Tsarap/Zanskar are barren with only a few fields near the small villages. The main Padum valley to the south and west is more fertile. A large Buddha statue under construction and willows and birches in their autumn colours stand out in the dry autumn landscape.

A few sparrows were foraging on the ground in the Gompa. Many alpine choughs soared and swooped up and down the face of the Gompa buildings, perhaps catching insects on the fly, perhaps out of sheer enjoyment.

Padum and Zanskar Range, view from Karsha Gompa NNE. Stod-Doda river right to left, Tsarap River centre to left. Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Roofs of Gompa buildings, village at the bottom, Karsha, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Kumik village, view from NW (Karsha Gompa). Stod - Tsarap confluence in the front. Elev. river 3,480m, Kumik 3,750m, Stongde Kangri peak (left) 5,830m. Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Prayer wheel on top of Karsha Gompa, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Prayer trident on top of Karsha Gompa. Confluence of Stod and Tsarap in centre. Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Stongde village and Gompa, view from NW (Karsha Gompa). Zanskar river in the front. Elev. village 3,530m, gompa 3,800m. Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Birch trees protected by stone walls, fields with rounded corners, Karsha, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

House sparrow (m) (Passer domesticus), Karsha Gompa, Zanskar, India

Buddha statue with Zanskar range in the background. View from Karsha Gompa. (PC: Pavin Samuel)

Karsha Gompa (right) and Karsha village (centre) in late evening, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Karsha Gompa, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Domestic yak with wooden nose ring, Karsha village, Zanskar

Innova crosses bridge over Stod-Doda, Karsha-Padum road, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Locals often buy used vehicles from Chandigarh and Punjab

Thursday 6th October 2022: Hike along the Tsarap

After breakfast, we drove up to the entrance to the Stakrimo Gompa. From there we hiked east along the broad, barren slopes towards the Tsarap. The path was a few hundred feet above the river, along a broad shelf sloping moderately up to the base of the mountains. To ease our way over the rocky terrain, we followed a cable trench. The opposite bank of the Tsarap rises steeply to a mountain range completely devoid of vegetation.

As we progressed, the valley narrowed. We had good views of the Darcha-Padum highway on the left bank of the Tsarap, and Shila village and waterfall on the opposite side. Barren, rocky terrain with occasional splashes of brilliant yellow, turquoise blue, white snow, and variegated rock strata characteristic of the region in autumn.

Around noon we came across a large collection of stone huts for shepherds. Incongruous was a modern toilet. We had lunch nearby and then retraced our path back to Stakrimo and Padum. Hot tea was welcome in Rigyal Hotel.

Hiking east towards the Tsarap left bank

Boulder-strewn valley at foot of scree slope, SE of Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Stakrimo Gompa, view from SE, Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Contemplating the trail to the summit, SE of Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Snack halt, view of Shila village and Tsarap river

Shila village on the right bank of the Tsarap, Zanskar, Ladakh, India. Commons POTD, 14/Oct/23

Bridge over the Tsarap under construction to Shila village, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Close-up of bridge over the Tsarap under construction to Shila village, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Tsarap river flowing into Padum valley near Shila, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Stone huts for shepherds with cement toilet, left bank of the Tsarap, opposite Shila village, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Stone huts for shepherds, modern toilet in the foreground. Padum valley top left.

Stone hut for shepherds on the left bank of the Tsarap opposite Shila village, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Shila village on the right bank of the Tsarap, view to Padum valley, Darcha-Padum highway on left bank, Zanskar, Ladaklh, India

View up the Tsarap from opposite Shila village, Padum-Darcha highway on right, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Close view of Shila village on the right bank of the Tsarap, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Hikers walking towards Stakrimo Gompa from the east, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Boulder-strewn terrain east of Stakrimo Gompa (centre of the image), Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Hikers walking towards Padum from the east, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Scat of a carnivore containing a small jaw bone

Boulder-strewn terrain east of Stakrimo Gompa (centre of the image), Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Stakrimo Gompa (centre), Padum valley (right), Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Panorama of Padum from south, view to NNE, Karsha Gompa left of centre. Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Friday 7th October 2022: Sani and Shila

We awoke to a clear, cold morning with lovely views of the snow-capped peak towering over Rigyal Hotel, Padum. After breakfast, we drove to Sani village about 12 km up the Stod-Doda river valley. Visited the statue of the Buddha on the Sani Lake. Stopped at the bridge over the Haptal Tokpo stream and hiked up a stony path along the stream. Views of an unnamed peak 5,570m (18,274') upstream enticed us onwards. A few hardy shrubs were the only relief in the arid terrain. A PWD construction crew was at work on the highway and a water pipeline along the stream.

Ubarak Kangri (6,150m) on left, Haftal Kangri (6,130m), SW of Stakrimo. Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Sani Lake and Padmasambhava statue, view to NE, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Prayer flags fluttering in the wind, Padmasambhava statue (distant view), Sani Lake, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Padmasambhava statue, Sani Lake, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Padmasambhava statue (close front view), Sani Lake, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Padmasambhava statue (left side view), Sani Lake, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Padmasambhava statue (detail, right side), Sani Lake, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Reeds in the Sani Lake, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Sani Lake with village behind, view to NW, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Sani, mountains reflected in Lake, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Traffic on NH301 heading SE from Sani towards Padum, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Panorama of Sani from SE, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Bridge over Haptal Tokpo, NH301 Padum-Kargil road, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Huts for road construction crew, NH301 near Sani, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

5,770m peak with 5,590m peak to right, Haptal Tokpo, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Haptal Tokpo flowing NE towards the Stod Doda, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Sani, with Stod Doda flowing left to right in the background, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

From Sani, we drove to the beginning of the Darcha road. There, we crossed the Tsarap and went upstream along the right bank for a few km to the village of Shila. Shila has a large flat area devoted to agriculture between the river and the steep mountain slopes. There is a waterfall just beyond the village. We walked up a dirt road along the stream for a few km. Then returned to Shila and drove back to Rigyal.

Shila waterfall, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Shila village, edged with yellowing birches, view from NE. Padum-Darcha highway and mountain range on the far side of the Tsarap River. Zanskar, Ladakh, India.

Yellowing birches along the Tsarap river, Shila, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Ruins of old buildings, Shila, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Birch in autumn foliage, Shila, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

View up the Shila Tokpo stream from Shila, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Stupa and ruined monks cells on scree slope above Shila, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Road winding up the barren Shila valley, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Autumn colours, Shila stream

Heading back to Shila

Road winding down the Shila valley, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Chukar partridge (Alectoris chukar chukar), above Shila Waterfall, Zanskar

Mountains opposite Shila catch the last rays of the sun as the valley falls into darkness

Saturday 8th October 2022: Return to Gemur via Phuktal Gompa

After an early breakfast, we started on the road back to Darcha. At the exit from Padum, we were stopped by some local taxi drivers who said that a Manali taxi driver could not take passengers out of Padum. After some discussion, our driver paid the fees to join the Padum taxi union and we were allowed to proceed. We drove steadily, see a few grey goral beside the road. We reached Purne at mid-morning where we took a diversion to Phuktal Gompa.

Fawn crossing road. Grey Goral (Naemorhedus goral). Tsarap valley, Zanskar, India

Doe watching for danger. Grey Goral (Naemorhedus goral). Tsarap valley, Zanskar, India

Padum-Darcha road under construction on the right bank of the Tsarap River. View to the south up the Tsarap towards Purne. Zanskar, Ladakh, India.

Chah village on the right bank of the Tsarap river below Purney, Zamtang on the left bank. Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Purney Bridge across the Tsarap, close view from NW, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Purney Bridge, close from SE, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

After a kilometre on a narrow dirt road, we reached the end of the road. From there, we hiked along the right bank of the Tsarap gorge for about 3 kilometres. After crossing the Tsarap over a wooden foot bridge, the trail climbed around a corner to stunning views of Phuktal Gompa perched around a cave a few hundred feet above the Tsarap River. We climbed the steep steps through the buildings of the monastery to the cave where the founding lama was said to have lived about 1,000 years ago.

View up the Tsarap towards Phuktal. Trail to the monastery visible centre-right. Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Clay formations in Tsarap gorge below Phuktal, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Trail to Phuktal, left bank of the Tsarap, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Phuktal new wooden footbridge over the Tsarap, downstream side, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Phuktal old footbridge over the Tsarap, view from right bank, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Phuktal new wooden footbridge over the Tsarap, upstream side, Path to Purney on left, path to Chah on right. Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Phuktal old and new footbridges over the Tsarap, upstream side, Path to Purney on left, path to Chah on right. Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Entrance arch, Phuktar Monastery, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

View towards entrance of Phuktar Gompa, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Phuktal Gompa and stupas, distant view from entrance, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Phuktal Gompa above the Tsarap river, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Cave and upper buildings, Phuktal Gompa, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Phuktar Gompa, view from below, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Yugar village and fields, opp. Phuktal, left bank of Tsarap, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Path through cliffside buildings, Phuktal Gompa, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Solar cooker, Phuktar Gompa, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Stupa in the cave, Phuktal Gompa, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Old monks rooms in the cave, Phuktal Gompa, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Cliff dwellings over the void (detail), Phuktal Gompa, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Cliff dwellings over the void, Phuktal Gompa, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Upper monastery buildings and the cave, Phuktal Gompa, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Chortens, Phuktar Gompa, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Tibetan inscription on stone near entrance to Phuktal Gompa, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

View downstream of the Tsarap River below Phuktal, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

After returning to the car, we drove steadily to reach the Shingo La pass just in time to catch a gorgeous sunset. We reached Gemur Khar in time for dinner and a comfortable night before heading back to the crowds of Manali and lower Himachal.

Gonbo Rangjon, view from north, km 235 on Padum-Darcha road, Lungnak Valley, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

Shingo Ri (6,070m, 19,915') at dusk, view from Shingo La, Zanskar/Lahaul

New Farmtrac 6065 Supermaxx tractors, fitted for earth/snow removal. Shinku La Top, Zanskar/Lahaul, India.

Sunset at Shingo La. View of road down towards Darcha beyond the lake. Lahaul, Himachal, India

Epilogue

Our trip was at the end of the summer season shortly before the passes would be closed by snow, blocking access to Zanskar for 6 months of winter. The landscape was most brown and devoid of vegetation. There were few tourists. In June 2024, I made another trip along the same route to see a very different face of Zanskar.

Photography equipment: Most of the pictures were taken using a Sony A7C with a compact 28-60mm normal lens and a 70-300mm telephoto lens. An ND grad filter was used in some images to intensify the blue sky. A few images were taken using a Sony RX100M6. This compact camera has a 1” Exmor sensor, so-called stacked backside illuminated. The quality of the images is close to that of the larger DX sensors. A few images are courtesy Pavin Samuel with his Nikon D3100 with a Nikkor 55-200mm lens.

Use of images: You are free to download individual medium resolution images from this page. Contact me by email if you want hires images suitable for printing.

More on Zanskar: Many of my best images from this trip and a subsequent visit in June 2024 are available on Wikimedia Commons.